Ski resorts in Italy

For diversity at altitude, it’s hard to match the Italian Alps. Most of the skiing is clustered to the east and to the west of the country, and those two extremes could hardly be more different.

Several big Italian ski areas are accessed from the Aosta Valley in the west, beneath Mont Blanc and the Monte Rosa. The area’s a mix of ultra-chic Courmayeur at one end and off-piste mecca Alagna at the other, with a bit of everything in between, most of it with striking scenery and minimal crowds. In the east are the Dolomites, some of the world’s most picturesque mountains, littered with dozens of small but well developed resorts, all under the umbrella of the “world’s biggest ski domain” and covered by a single lift pass.

If there’s a unifying theme, it’s the laid back flavour of skiing in Italy. Not just the Italian skiers themselves, but visitors from abroad tend to be relaxed – if not at the start, then certainly by the end of their holiday.

But despite the vibe, and the quality of the coffee, pasta and pizza, many of the resorts are closer – physically, historically and in the makeup of the local population – to their bordering alpine countries than they are to Rome or Naples. The architecture, the language and some items on the menu frequently make you think you’re well north of the border, though it’s always overlaid with that unique sense of Italy, and frequently bathed in sunshine.

That last factor can be an issue: the Italian Alps depend on southerly weather systems to bring them snow, and it doesn’t always fall. But recent thin seasons have at least coincided with low temperatures, allowing resorts to provide great skiing on man-made snow of impressive quality; the Italians are right up there with the Austrians for the amount of coverage they have.

Almost regardless of the weather, Italy is very good news for keen skiers: you’ll be up and skiing empty slopes while the Italians are enjoying a long breakfast, a longer lunch and possibly concentrating more on up-coming nightlife than the afternoon’s skiing. Cortina d’Ampezzo certainly enjoys more non-skiing winter visitors than it does skiers, yet its slopes are well worth the journey, even before you start admiring the view.

As for off-slope diversions, Italy’s the prime place to give your fur-coat an outing, and the evening passegiatta in the ritzy resorts will certainly make you consider updating your wardrobe; anyone dancing on tables in ski boots might be politely directed to Austria, though you’re in the right place to enjoy classic wine-bars and sumptuous food. Above all, as with the skiing, you can make of it what you will.