Canada

Canada’s skiing reflects the country: big and empty. Thanks to a unique combination of northerly latitude and large mountains, many of which are perfectly placed to catch Pacific storms, Canada has developed a reputation for great snow without too many skiers to spoil the view,  or more importantly, your fresh tracks.

Most of the skiing in Canada shares the same Rocky Mountains that stretch north to south through the continent of North America. Though the peaks are not as lofty as in the U.S., the skiing starts at lower altitudes, so they still offer as many if not more vertical feet to be skied.

Whistler-Blackcomb is a case in point, topping the North American league table with 5,279 vertical feet (1,609 m). Only Mike Wiegele’s helicopter skiing operation claims more vertical and that too is in British Columbia, Canada. Whistler-Blackcomb also comes out top for ski acreage with a massive 8,171 acres (3,307 ha). That’s around 40 percent bigger than Vail.

There’s strength in depth too, meaning more to choose from and also more to have to leave until later—resorts such as Kicking Horse, Panorama and Red Mountain will be added to the site as soon as possible.

Though the country might be huge, the population is small and most of it is centered in Ontario and Québec, far from the best skiing. Even allowing for visitors from abroad, it all adds up to good news for skiers who like their snow untrammeled. A simple calculation of lift capacity divided by size of ski area suggests a lower skier density than in the U.S. In Canada you can expect to clash poles with no more than eight skiers per acre in most resorts, though Tremblant is the exception that proves the rule.

There has been heavy investment in technology and infrastructure in many resorts to provide more high-speed lifts and improve mountain bases. Though some of the smaller resorts have further lift improvements to make, ski area management in Canada is driven by the same competitive instincts as in the U.S., with a focus on service and efficiency. It’s leading to improvements for skiers year on year, with the distinct advantage that Canadian resorts are in less danger of killing the goose that laid the golden egg—driving skiers away through overcrowding—than resorts in many other parts of the world.

The type of terrain and the range of skiing, from groomed cruisers to untouched deeps, is as varied as in the U.S. The top forty resorts in North America average around 20 percent beginner, 40 percent intermediate and 40 percent advanced. Beyond that broad statistic, only closer study of individual resorts will determine which one is for you.

As in the U.S., key advantages for skiers make a refreshing change for Europeans. Some seem prosaic, but can make all the difference on vacation: orderly lift lines and generally responsible skiers (or at least, better policing). Others are more fundamental, and also affect skiers at every level: high-quality tuition (with no language barrier for English speakers); immaculate grooming; and, particularly for advanced skiers, an abundance of in-bounds terrain to allow skiing that in the European Alps would be classified “off-piste” and might require a guide to experience. At this level, both B.C. and Alberta offer plenty of deep powder and steeps, not to mention the biggest heli-skiing operations in the world.

Canada’s strong multicultural base is reflected by the amazing choice of international cuisine, and—in a laid-back kind of way—it’s very friendly. Québec City and Montréal offer a more European flavour while the British Columbia resorts, led by Whistler-Blackcomb—which rivals any resort worldwide—are more international.

But Canada is also special for its wonderfully preserved mountain environments. The Rocky Mountains of Alberta are the jewel in the crown, with breathtaking scenery and wildlife in Jasper and Banff National Parks attracting millions of visitors annually. Most come in the summer months, so the towns of Jasper and Banff Lake Louise are off-season in winter, making them even better value.