La Grave is capable of providing even the most experienced skiers and snow boarders with a fresh sense of wonder but it demands the utmost respect. “You need a good dose of humility and responsibility” to ski here, according to the resort. Crevasses and avalanches are always a threat, and it makes excellent sense to hire a guide. Some itineraries, particularly in reaching some of the more technical couloirs, may require the use of climbing equipment. As Francis Ginet and Fabrice Villaret, authors of a booklet describing the off-piste possibilities in the region, stress: “The quality of the snow may make certain usually very safe slopes dangerous for several days. A slope that was good and safe yesterday won’t necessarily be so tomorrow.” And readers are reminded: “skiing in the wilds should never be confused with wild skiing.”

There are no groomed runs, but the two main routes down, Chancel and the steeper Vallons de la Meije, are marked both on the map and on the ground, and are skied so often that they are piste-like, at least in places, so if there is anywhere on the mountain that interemediates can cope with, it’s these runs. Although there is no formal ski patrol as such, there is a patrouilleur stationed in a wooden hut near the gondola station who will give you advice about the mountain and current conditions.

There used to be a third marked run – Pylônes – but it has now been removed from the map. It’s steeper than the other two and, unsurprisingly, follows the route of the pylons. 

But once you stray from these routes, you need to know exactly what you’re doing, where you’re going and what equipment you need. In practical terms, that means hiring a guide. (Strictly speaking you should hire a guide just to do the marked itineraries, and that is definitely the safest thing to do, but most skiers don’t.) Your guide can then show you routes down to La Grave and the valley road approaching it (which are mostly North-facing) or  runs off the back towards St Christophe, which are mostly South-facing.

There also also plenty more skiing, on-piste and off-piste, in Les Deux Alpes which you can ski over to from La Grave’s top lift, Return is by the snowcat tow or via a 20 minute hike. There are some buses between the two villages, but not many.

Serre-Chevalier is just a half-hour’s drive away from La Grave and has excellent tree skiing which provides a welcome change in poor visibility. Again there are some public buses between La Grave and Le Monetier, the nearest lift-station in Serre Chevalier, but not many. Most La Grave lift passes entitle you to a discount on the Serre Chevalier lift pass. 

Near to La Grave, and well connected by buses, is the small village of Le Chazelet which has some good, sunny beginners slopes, and some La Grave lift passes entitle you to use them, or at least give you a discount. But whilst these slopes are geographically close to La Grave’s thay are a world away in terms of steepness, so very few skiers spend time in both areas.