Grand Tourmalet

The old spa village of Barèges and the purpose-built resort of La Mongie form Grand Tourmalet, the largest and highest ski area in the French Pyrenees. Family skiers and weekenders will appreciate its low prices and short airport transfers, but for off-piste skiers the 2877m Pic du Midi is its highpoint in every sense.


Skiing in Grand Tourmalet

Ski Area

The Grand Tourmalet ski domain has about 30 lifts, 60 runs and 100km of piste skiing. That makes it one of the largest ski areas in the Pyrenees but only small-to-mid-sized by alpine standards. If you’ve come here primarily for a relaxing holiday, it’s probably just large enough for a week, particularly if stronger skiers take advantage of the area’s freeride and ski touring opportunities or use the freestyle park. But experienced keen skiers who stick religiously to the piste will find the area a bit limited unless they are only here only for a ski-weekend.

Beginner Skiing in Grand Tourmalet

Beginners and near novices benefit from special lift passes and a well designed piste network that helps them get away from the nursery slopes. You can make the 12 km trip between La Mongie and Bareges in both directions, and also descend all the way from the top of the highest piste (2500m), entirely on green and blue runs.

Intermediate Skiing in Grand Tourmalet

Most intermediates will like the mix of red and blue runs. The only complaint is likely to be that there are not enough of them for a full week, compared to larger areas in the Alps.

Advanced skiing, Freeride and Ski Touring in Grand Tourmalet

The off-piste skiing in Grand Tourmalet  is definitely worth trying. Nearly every piste has some freeriding to the side of it, and the north-facing area between the Pourteilh and Prade Verde lifts is particularly good. Longer itineraries are also possible from the top of the 4 Termes lift for those prepared to do a little bit of climbing.

The highlight for freeriders and ski tourers, however, is the 2877m Pic du Midi, reached by a two-stage cable car from La Mongie. (This lift is not included on the standard Grand Tourmalet lift pass so you have to pay extra to use it.) There are no pistes down: you either admire the stunning views then return in the lift; or you tackle one of the off-piste descents with verticals of up to 1700m. Hiring a mountain guide is strongly recommended because none of it is protected from avalanches. Those wanting an early start, or who enjoy stargazing, can stay stay overnight at the top of the Pic du Midi in the old observatory.

Mountain Restaurants

There aren’t many mountain restaurants in Grand Tourmalet. There is one at the top of the Pic du Midi and one at the Col du Tourmalet, but perhaps the most charming is the tiny Chalet des Pisteurs above the Pourteilh lift. There are no inside tables so come on a sunny day. It’s about a 5 minute walk uphill, but the views, the inexpensive nourishing food and the friendly service make it well worth a visit.  Afterwards it’s an easy descent to get back onto the blue piste, although experienced freeriders who know what they are doing can also veer off to their right to access interesting off-piste terrain.

Staying in Grand Tourmalet

Bareges is the place to stay for charm and history. In good snow conditions you can ski back to its edge, but there are no lifts inside the village. Instead you start your day with a short ride in the free ski bus to the lifts at Le Tournaboup or Lienz. And in the evening you can stroll around a mountain village which first became famous as a tourist destination in 1675 when its hot sulphur springs were visited by Louis XIV’s mistress. Apres ski and nightlife are cosy rather than loud and vibrant, and prices are lower than in the Alps. There is also enough to do during the day if you fancy taking a break from the pistes: dog sledding, snowmobile rides, snowshoeing, paragliding, nordic skiing or just relaxing in the Cieleo spa.

La Mongie is also inexpensive and fun without being particularly raucous. It was purpose-built at 1800m above sea-level in the 1970s so it’s not pretty, but most of its accommodation is within easy walking distance of the lifts and pistes, and it has a central crescent lined with bars and restaurants facing the river which has a nice ambiance. Le Schuss restaurant is particularly recommended. Once the lifts close, most visitors content themselves with a quiet drink or do some tobogganing, but if anyone needs a further adrenaline rush or just wants to find out what it’s like to go up a ski slope very fast, they should try the snow-scooting. or “MotoNeige” which departs from near the Pic du Midi base station.

Ski & Snowboard Rental in Grand Tourmalet

Ultimate-Ski partner ALPINRESORTS.com work with shops in La Mongie and Bareges and the surrounding villages and offers booking discounts on ski hire >.

Grand Tourmalet Pros & Cons

+ Good value for money
+ Excellent off-piste from Pic du Midi
+ Good resort for beginners and improving novices
+ Quick airport transfer./ good weekend option
+ Choice of charming Bareges or convenient La Mongie

– The ski area may be too small for a full week for strong keen skiers
– Not quite high enough to be snowsure
– La Mongie is not visually attractive
– Bareges is a bus ride from the lifts and a long way from the Pic du Midi

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The main gateway airports for Grand Tourmalet and the Pic du Midi are Tarbes-Lourdes-Pyrenees and Toulouse-Blagnac international airports; Tarbes-Lourdes is closest to the resort, but Toulouse-Blagnac offers more flights. The nearest TGV train station at Lourdes is only 48 km...

Within Grand Tourmalet, the high altitude resort of La Mongie has some inexpensive hotels and plenty of good value self-catered apartments close to the slopes. Bareges is more attractive and has a greater variety of accommodation but is a short...

Grand Tourmalet offers a choice of four recognised ski schools operating under the ESF and ESI umbrellas, an independent snowboard school, and highly experienced mountain guides and instructors for freeriding and ski touring including off-piste descents from the Pic du...

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